A blissful end of season getaway

A legacy of last years’ COVID travel restrictions meant that I had some EasyJet flight credit in the bank. In Nottinghamshire, many children get a two-week October half term break and it made sense, so that we could spend some real quality time together, for August to spend one of those weeks with me and the other with his dad. At the point we booked flights to Ibiza, I didn't have two other trips planned in, in July and September this year, but I really don't think that would have made a great deal of difference to the overall decision to travel there again.

I love Ibiza, particularly in the shoulder season. To visit in early May or late April, is just blissful. There's a real sense of anticipation in the air, everything cleansed, refreshed, and waiting for the magic to happen. The calm before the storm. I hadn't visited any later than September previously and was intrigued to see what the effect at the end of the year would be, particularly after the disruptions of COVID.

Flight options weren't that plentiful, because at the time we decided to travel, there were still an awful lot of COVID related restrictions. I think we booked the flights back in January 2021. So again, to a certain extent, it was a bit of a gamble of whether it would come off, but I had faith, and I'm not so wedded to a particular plan that if that plan doesn't come through, we do so in the recognition that there are lots of alternatives and we'd still get away.

There were a few flight interruptions and the eventual flights ended up out of Luton and back into Gatwick. A bit of a logistical challenge when the returning flight arrives at midnight into Gatwick and your car is parked in Luton, with a four-year-old in tow. But the train between the two airports wasn't too badly priced, I just didn't really think it through that we would be passing through central London late at night and with that comes all the sort of stuff you wouldn't necessarily want a 4-year-old to witness. He found it entertaining however!

I spent quite a lot of time considering accommodation. Earlier in the year I'd rented a camper van from Lauren and Andrea via Airbnb and really fancied this for me and August. However, being mindful, of the needs of a 4-year-old, I thought it important to try and find places with a swimming pool and the prospect of meeting other kids. As it turned out, why would you want other kids when you've got an obliging mummy willing to act out every whim, to include spending an entire day riding make-believe Harley Davidsons around #Ibiza town and #Figuretas. If I dared take my hands off the handlebars and stop the loud engine noise I've been told to make, I'd get an absolute bollocking.

I returned exhausted yet invigorated and even more in love with Ibiza. So, the flight out was smooth, I'm a big fan of flying from #Luton. Not only is the car parking much cheaper than other regional airports but the passenger experience progressing through the airport is seamless and we arrived in Ibiza having enjoyed witnessing August refamiliarizing with the experience and sensations of flying. Welcomed by the familiar scenes of coming into land over #Salinas, the aircraft doors opened, and the warmth wrapped its arms around us and gave us a gentle hug. 'Welcome back' it said.

With a slight pang of jealousy, I witnessed the other passengers arriving and hanging around the airport at that time. Just the week before, incidentally the week after I've been out in Ibiza with my girls to celebrate my 40th birthday, an announcement had been made that the clubs would reopen for closing, and many clubbing aficionados made their way across to prove that dancing is not a crime at DC-10's programme of amazing line ups and #Amnesia closing.

We had hired a car, the best way to get around, explore and be at your own leisure to experience the full potential of the island. In the end I opted to split the week. A week! I can't remember the last time I was away for that period and was relishing the idea of the rejuvenation at the end of that period.

The first three days were to be spent in Puerto San Miguel at the #Balansat apartments, somewhere I'd always made a bit of a vow to take a child of mine should I be lucky enough to have one, on account of the amazing pool complex that I know that they would just absolutely love. Plus, Puerto de San Miguel beach is beautiful, and you've got the caves close by in case the weather isn't so great. A good base, I thought to explore the beautiful and rugged northeast of the island.

I was really impressed with the Balansat apartments. They seem to have been recently renovated, offering a high standard of accommodation for the price we paid, which I think was about 30 to 40 pounds per night. Granted, one thing I'm not particularly into myself are organised resorts, and this is one that's used by some of the European Tour operators including Jet2 holidays. But at least here there seemed to be a variety in the different nationalities staying there. Afterall when I travel, I'm travelling away from the UK to meet and encounter difference in terms of environment and culture. I want the same experience and opportunities for August. That's not to say that there's anything wrong with that form of tourism, it offers great benefits that I fully acknowledge. It's just not a personal preference of mine.

However, what was amazing were the pools, albeit rather chilly where we spent a good bit of time and met some lovely other families, which unfortunately August was still shy to play with. To try and create a holiday that meets both of our needs, because after all I don't think it's necessarily the best lesson that everything should be centred solely around your children, and some of the things I might choose to do August might also find enjoyment, we would typically spend the mornings around the pool and then go off and explore in the afternoon.

We enjoyed a delicious seafood lunch overlooking the beach in Puerto de San Miguel and then opted to head to #Portinax, somewhere I haven't been before for a bit of beach time. We weren't disappointed and I would strongly recommend anyone to visit Portinax for the two beautiful coves and gently shelving sands into inviting, azure waters. I particularly like the seafront facing restaurants and small bars. I could have spent many a leisurely afternoon here enjoying the beautiful scenery.

The next afternoon, we set off again to try and see some of the places that we haven't yet been on the island. Ultimately, we were looking for a nice beach where August could play, and we could swim. So, we headed east. After a bit of Googling of ‘Ibiza’s best beaches’, we headed to Portixol. Although when we reached the place, you were clearly intended to park, the prospects of the steep and lengthy climb ahead of us deterred August. So, we carried on to Cala D’Albarca, a little further along the coast. There were a few cars parked in a clearing, and a muddy track heading downwards. We decided to give it a go, not really knowing how far a climb down it was to the potential gorgeous beach that we hoped lie ahead.

The path became increasingly challenging terrain for a 4-year-old (and a 40-year-old!!!). Repeated inquiries as to whether August would like to turn back and go somewhere else were met with resistance. He was enjoying the adventure. “Do you think a monster truck could get down here mummy?”, monster trucks being his current obsession. We mused over the prospect of a monster truck tumbling down the hillside and navigating this challenging terrain. We walked, and walked, and walked. Ultimately, I was super proud of August's resilience, when I was becoming personally disheartened with the prospect of reaching the shore anytime soon. All I could think of is that there is no way he is going to climb back up this hillside that had so far taken us an hour to navigate.

So, we continued. Even when we reached what I think was the bottom, sadly no beach. But instead, the most beautiful rock archway over the sea and scenery of the Cove. I'm sure it was possible to climb further down but again knowing my son, knew that climbing any further would only mean that I would have to carry him back up again. By that time dusk was starting to fall and we started our return journey. Lo and behold after a short way August announced that there is no way he couldn't walk any further. After a few attempts at bribery, I had to give in and put him on my shoulders. Boy, was I glad to see the little red car at the top at the end of the one-hour hike with a lump on my shoulders. Still worth it though.

As it was Sunday, we decided to head to #Benirras, for the prospect of the famous sunset drumming. So had every other man, woman, and their dog, albeit, I imagine, in much lower density than in peak season. Despite this, it was pleasurable to share this beauty with so many others. The communal experience of saying goodbye to the day. It was on this occasion that I think August fell in love with Benirras and we visited there four more times that week. We ate at Restaurant 2000, which again, on August’s request we returned to twice more during the holiday. I really recommend the place. Of course, next door you have the Elements beach club, which seems to be the place to go and to be seen and looks beautiful, but the menu was more one of Asian fusion and we were really keen for seafood.

The great thing about the restaurants on Benirras is that they are literally on the beach. For families with small children you can sit, enjoy a rare moment of relaxation, soak in the scenery, an enjoy the innocence of children at play on the beach. This is something particularly that warmed me. I love to watch August playing on the beach. He loses himself in imagination and creativity, just as he should. It's in moments like these that it really reminds me of how precious childhood is and how, to certain extent the lifestyle we live in the UK accounts for some of the behaviours, worries, and anxiety that you shouldn't see in a young child but admittedly I'm starting to see. But in this moment, he is truly happy and free. And so am I. Totally chilled, entranced by the hypnotic banging of the drums.

We changed location the next day, to the Casa Luis apartments just on the outskirts of Santa Eulalia. Again, a base on the southern shore of the island to give us a different area to explore. Casa Louis had been chosen again because of the cool swimming pools and the location. They were little pricier, but I deemed it worth the money if August could practise his swimming, which is something I was keen for him to do. Being right at the end of the season, I also figured that there might be a bit more going on in Santa Eulalia being more of an all-year-round resort and place where a lot of expatriates base themselves. I wasn't wrong and there was still a good buzz to the town and loads of restaurants open at the point we left. I won't say too much more about the accommodation apart from the fact that August loved the pool, and the apartments were great. This time however far more package orientated with the British consumer in mind. The slightly cringey, rabbit producing, sword stabbing, Alejandro the mysterioso as a form of evening entertainment had followed us there from the Balansat!

The day we changed base it was pissing it down, however. So, we headed (en-route in a roundabout sort of way) to the Northwest Coast and San Antonio, not out of any particular liking for San Antonio but the fact that there is an aquarium there and it seemed a decent wet weather activity. The weather cheered up however and it ended up being a nice sunny day. Good job because the aquarium, whilst entertaining for perhaps 5 minutes is rather small. We had lunch at the Golden Buddha restaurant which was a really nice way to while away a little bit of time surrounded by the resident cats and tortoises which August found delightful.

As the weather had improved, we made our way to Cala Salada, again one of the places I hadn't visited before but had been recommended. The recommendation was bang on. It's an absolutely beautiful Cove with crystal clear turquoise water, and the adjacent Cala Saladeta is just as pleasing. We had lunch at the restaurant on the beach. I would highly recommend the Squid a la plancha. Covered with roasted garlic and swimming in olive oil this was a real delight for the taste buds. An impromptu visit from some musicians provided the perfect soundtrack to our swim. That evening we walked into Santa Eulalia, which was again a decent distance to cover, and I ended up with a 4-year-old on my shoulders.

The next day, in Es Cana, we went on a glass bottom boat trip. What I'm starting to learn is that the organised touristic experiences seemed to be both for myself and August far less satisfying than just getting out and walking, and seeing, and climbing, and swimming. The fish were in short supply that day. And we all left the boat feeling rather queasy. It was Wednesday and, to my delight the hippie market at Punta Arabi was actually on, despite conflicting reports on social media. I know that the merchandise is probably overpriced and much of its can be purchased elsewhere on the island much more cheaply, but I just find the atmosphere and the ambiance really enjoyable to spend an hour or so. August enjoyed it too and we left there with my purse quite a bit lighter but with some great gifts for family and friends.

We headed back to base and then started the optimistic coastal walk from the beach which was adjacent to our accommodation; Playa Es Niu Blau in the direction of Cala Martina, the ultimate goal being to head to the beach bar Chirincana. Chirincana is somewhere I went for the first time back in July and fell in love with the place. For me, this is one of the examples of Ibiza at it's best and most authentic and diverse. It's also a superb place to watch the sun go down on that coast.

This is the place where talented musicians play, friends of a wide variety of nationalities socialise at picnic bench tables, chatting, laughing and as the night proceeds dancing, whooping, and clapping. It's a place of real happiness for me, and I imagine others too. August loved it and asked to move closer to the stage so that he could watch the artists at work. That was a really special night and we danced and laughed and ate as the sun went down.

On my July trip our host recommended Es Pou De Leo as one of the best beaches on the island and so we decided to head there the next day. The autumn storms had whipped up the seabed and the beach was covered with drying mounds of seaweed. So, I don't think we saw it in its full glory, but I can imagine its appeal with a rustic chiringuito positioned overlooking the beach.

One of the places that I had been considering staying was a Hostal in Cala Boix. being the next cala along, so we headed there instead. That day August had it in his mind that he wanted to go in a kayak and so that was in our psychological shopping list. I'm going to put it out there and say that I think that Cala Boix is now my favourite beach on the island. We had lunch at the Chiringuito, and the kind owner lent us her friend’s kayak. Even though the storms were approaching at that time and the sky had turned a thundery grey, which in combination with the streaming sunlight made the most beautiful scene, we spent the afternoon on that beach. We swam, we kayaked, we ate, we made big sandcastles.

I like our trips to be packed full, so that wasn't the end of the day. We headed over to Cala Comte and enjoyed another swim in the beautiful turquoise sea. We even managed to squeeze a space at Sunset Ashram to enjoy our pina colada and an apple juice. But en route we visited a place, the most amazing place there for some bizarre reason, after 20 years of travelling to Ibiza I have only just become aware of this year; the ruined festival club in the hills above San Jose! The original super club of the island. I would sell a kidney to be transported back to 1972 to see this place in its very short-term glory as I would with Space in the 1980s! What a magical and perfect day!

Our penultimate day was a little rainy to start with. But that doesn't stop play. We headed into Ibiza town and spent some time, quite a lot of time riding our imaginary motorbikes. Passers-by must have thought that we were hopping mad. Maybe we are, who cares! I took this opportunity to introduce August to Figuretas and the lady who makes, and I'm going to stick my neck out on this, the best Jamon Serrano, tomato and olive oil bocadillos in the whole of Spain. We walked along the promenades, one of my favourite walks in the whole world and August played on the play park.

At August’s request we headed back to Benirras that night. It wasn't a Sunday, but a collection of people was drumming on the left-hand corner of the beach under the shelter of the fisherman's huts. A crowd had gathered, we joined that crowd. Again, this is one of my most cherished moments of the holiday. August loved the music. A change seems to go over him when we go to Benirras. Again, he was totally happy. Totally free we danced to the music on the beach. He did cartwheels in the sea, and I could tell the other people there witnessing the music also enjoyed seeing a child at play.

The last day was rainy, really rainy. I still know where I'd rather be. I can feel a sadness welling up inside me. I don't seem to be experiencing normal emotions right now, but this was a moment of real emotion; a ball in my stomach gradually rising, about to overflow. I didn't want to leave. We filled the day with things. Things that weren't particularly purposeful. Nevertheless, still pure bliss to be there. An extended breakfast with the cats. A hunt for a functioning pedalo or family bike. We settled on lunch at Casa Manolo in Playa D’en Bossa. A true Spanish Saturday afternoon extravaganza. The noisiest place on earth! But the best hospitality and best food. It was like the locals were celebrating. Maybe this is in my imagination because I know that when Spanish get together and enjoy leisure time it's always noisy. But there was an extra air of carnivalesque. Like, we've got there, we've made it we've got our island back to ourselves for the winter. Boy, it’s been a shit couple of years but here we are, together and enjoying a little taste of normality. I'm not sure it could have just been a few big birthday parties or a girls’ afternoon out from work. But again, some sense of magic in the air. I witnessed the same on Cala Martina. One of the restaurants was closed to customers, but there was a family inside, music turned up loud dancing, embracing, and smiling.

Finally, we made our way to the airport. The improvements made to Ibiza airport recently are phenomenal and it represents a great passenger experience. The kids’ play area made time pass swiftly and August finally found a friend. Not that the prospect of friends wasn't a possibility throughout the week, but he finally took up the opportunity to make a friend, just as we were leaving! It was late at night and so August slept all the way home. Good job because we had a long journey ahead of us to get back to Nottingham via Gatwick and Luton. But we have it nailed in terms of August sitting on the wheelie case to save his little legs and save any chance of me having to give him a shoulder carry.

Turbuli.com (my habitual pre travel turbulence advisor) had assured me that even though it would be a bumpy climb it would be a smooth flight during the rest. First time they were wrong! For the duration of the flight, I sat sweating on the back row with my stomach in knots made worse by the gin soaked, over sized granny who just couldn’t wait to get back home for her dog encroaching into my seating area. My precious boy curled up asleep next to me thankfully oblivious of his mess of a mother next to him. But we made it home alive.

So, what are my takeaways from this trip? I've said it many times and I'll say it again, get travelling. YOU need it, destinations need it, and the travel industry needs it. Try not to fear. There is no greater risk to you being in a different destination to being at home. Just use common sense. Next, you will have harmony on a holiday with a small child so long as you think about the things that your child will enjoy and make sure that they are a feature of the experience. Secondly, I still don't particularly like package hotels. There appears to be an unnecessary amount of politics and poor etiquette as exemplified in the sun beds reserved by towels whilst people were gorging themselves on the breakfast buffet. I felt a sense of satisfaction when the pouring rain disintegrated those towels into a soggy sad mess; ironic. Thirdly I think we both got much more joy out of simplicity and authenticity, thank goodness. Finally, I made the mistake of trying to set up the possibility of encounters with other children for August. In reality he just really enjoyed the quality time with his mum.

So, there you have it, I didn't want to come home, and I can't wait to return. My love for Ibiza will never diminish and along with so many others I'm wracking my brains to try and find a way to stay.